A lesser-known destination in central Greece with skiing in winter and cozy fireplaces in some of the rooms, Portaria offers a cool respite from the hot hot Volos’ or Athens’ summer with its almost chilly mornings and evenings (bring a wrap!) and icy spring waters. One of our favorite spots in Portaria is the charmingly beautiful Kritsa Gastronomy Hotel and Restaurant (www.hotel-Kritsa.gr), right on the square, with air conditioning as well as an old-worldly quaintness, managed and decorated both with great imagination.