By Cathy H. Burroughs, International Travel Writer & Adventure Blogger, journeyPod.com
Less than 30 miles from Florence you’ll find the lesser-known Lucca, the last of the medieval walled-cities of Italy. The other end of the spectrum from the vesper-hectic, art-infused frenzy that is Florence, you may be surprised to encounter this unexpected compact, tranquil and beautiful town. Considerably less pricey than Florence, Venice or even Rome (although the resourceful traveler can make all three work, as we did), you’ll find Lucca to be relaxed as well as pedestrian and bike-friendly. From this Renaissance era fully-intact walled-city you’ll be perfectly perched to capture all of Tuscany.
Before you explore the region you’ll need to leisurely meander through this luminous town whose native son Puccini – some say one of the foremost composers of Italian opera after Verdi – is just one reason why the small city is indelibly etched on the map of the region. To learn more about this late 19th century romantic opera great, there is a fact-filled English tour at Puccini’s house museum on Corte San Lorenzo where you will see hand-corrected librettos, the piano and worn bench where the maestro spent long hours composing, actual costumes from his Tosca, Madame Butterfly, La Boheme and even the letter where he tried to calm his irate wife mad with jealousy over his flagrant indiscretions. At night you can experience the master’s “thrilling music” first hand in a live concert at the nearby church of San Giovanni.
Stroll at dusk with the elegant and engaging guide Mary Cort for the nighttime MAGIC Lucca along its ancient cobbled stone walkways dotted with truly scrumptious food and restaurant offerings and architecture which ranges from Lucchese to Pisano Romanesque, from Art Nouveau to highly ornamented Gothic. It’s easy to fall in love with Lucca. With its gentle pace, gorgeous bike and walking paths and lawns atop its pristinely retained thick and high three-tiered wall and bastions that frame this magical town, it was once run by its very own princess. Elisa, Napoleon’s sister, said to be a female version of her brother, ruled with a steely hand, all the while ushering in progressive changes and enlightened innovations. As it turns outs, Elisa was not satisfied with her several hundred roomed office/residence and insisted upon a summer palace for herself just outside the city.
Villa Reale
Ten miles from town she found her beloved summer villa in 1806. During her heyday the villa known as Villa Reale with its massive grounds was the site of at least one performance by the world famous violinist Paganini and visited by both surrealist painter Salvador Dali and American portrait painter John Singer Sergeant. We, too, spent one fine day as privileged guests under the watchful tutelage of guide par excellence Roberta Pellegrineschi.
During our breath-taking ramble of the sprawling and splendiferous 33-acres of manicured mazes and undulating countryside, Roberta entertained us with her encyclopedic knowledge of its history, architecture, landscaping as well as the names of rare trees, herbs and flowers from its extensive collection. Atop the human-made hill, we surveyed the surrounds as well as the boating lake which could rival Central Park’s. Adorning the grounds are the Bishop’s home, the ornate Spanish Garden, St. Xavier’s Chapel, the Lemon Garden, the Camellia Walkway, the Clock House as well as the original 1920’s swimming pool with cabana and tennis courts. There’s also a one-of-a-kind outdoor natural green theater complete with hedged orchestra pit and as you will discover stables, fountains, and the sculpted heads of Pan and his spouting gargoyles and mermen – the secret grotto where the water games may have led to risque romps.
On our virtually private tour, we were privy to the handmade miniature dollhouse replica of the villa and outbuildings. We did not, however, get to see the illustrious manor’s interior so must wait with the rest of the world for the Swiss couple who is restoring it to its original resplendence to officially reopen it. This may turn out to be the region’s most spectacular luxury hotel and grounds.
Lost in time at Villa Reale it’s easy to think this region is magnificently but irrevocably trapped in the past. But Lucca is full of surprises. Their annual wild and wooly comic book and super hero convention (Lucca’s fanciful Comics & Games) and record-breaking Rolling Stones concert (part of its annual rock concert Rolling Loud Festival) has catapulted the city firmly and resoundingly into the current century.
For details, write turislucca@turrislucca.com, take a marvelous regional tour with www.comeandseeitaly.com (0039 0572 091832) or stop by the Lucca Tourism Office. Try to stay within the city walls for easy walking. Outside of the walls but not too far are two highly recommended and reasonable places to stay: the delightful and romantic B&B La Casa Del Gufetto (full of namesake owls) and the impeccable and fully-loaded Lucca Studios Apartments (+39 393 355 1968).
Cathy H. Burroughs international travel writer and adventure blogger shares highlights of her stay in Lucca as part of three months in the South of France, Tuscany and more.
