Bon Marche Department Store Re-Imagined as a Historic Boutique Hotel: The Haywood Park Hotel
and its Chic Modern Sister The Cambria

# 1 on Trip Advisor, Both Just Steps Away From Everything

By Cathy H. Burroughs
Fashion & Culture Writer/Blogger

Asheville, North Carolina, known as the “Land of the Sky,” framed by the alluring blue haze of the Blue Ridge Mountains, is a magical place year round but no time more sparkly than during the winter holiday season. With its unusual and remarkably resilient history dating from the Depression era of the late 20’s, the city has preserved most of its extraordinary architectural specimens from the Roaring 20’s era.

This makes it a stand out with the most Art Deco in the country next to Miami, Florida. It’s fascinating architectural legacy and extremely colorful and checkered past are all compellingly revealed on Asheville’s famed Hop On/ Hop Off exceptional Trolley Line tours.

Noted for its epic Art Deco edifices and facades, Asheville is also known for its veritable array and range of architecture stemming from the economic boom of the Gilded Age. These include the French Renaissance chateaesque Biltmore Estate, America’s largest privately owned home; the Beaux-Arts and Neo Classical revival styles of Romanesque, Gothic and Spanish; and residential cottage style bungalows with tapered porch columns and low-pitched rooflines, as well as the eclectic and highly decorative turrets and gingerbread trim of the ornate, over the top Victorian style.

Arts and Craft brilliance is another exceptional example. Its rustic luxury is on thrilling display with the renowned resort and spa on Sunset Mountain – The Omni Grove Park Inn, developed by Edwin Wiley Grove known as “EW”.

Sometimes referred to as the “the Father of Modern Asheville,” “EW’s” legacy of architectural achievement and vision combined to make Asheville an irresistible destination – all contributing to creating a time capsule that appears to have been locked in the past in the most captivating way possible.

Its extraordinary architecture in combo with Asheville’s diverse and lauded culinary scene; vital arts and artist’s studios (one fine example right across the street from our hotel in a dazzling converted Woolworth’s with a still going lunch counter); and many concentrated in its still recovering from Hurricane Helene River Arts District, adjacent to the imposing French Broad River (with rafting in warm weather) put Asheville on the map.

The city literally reverberates with live music on nearly every street corner and in cool funky venues; original one-of-a kind retail establishments (where else could you find a used clothing shop called Hip Replacements or, Madame Clutterbuckets Neurodiverse Universe offering “freaky antiques” and “hilarious accessories,” all while maintaining an inclusive workplace); over 75 breweries, extensive hiking and biking trails in nature and a progressive, green culture of sustainability. All of this culminates with a totality of enticements that continually validate its reputation as “the Paris or Greenwich Village of the South,” and “San Francisco of the East,” replete with hilly terrain.

This with its rarified mountain air make Asheville, NC one of the South’s most alluring destinations as a “New Age Mecca”.

So it was with our great surprise and delight that we discovered our perfect Asheville hospitality destinations amongst the literally 100’s of boutique hotels and primo B&B’s: the historic Haywood Park Hotel, once the posh Bon Marche department store, and its chic modern sister counterpart, just steps away, the Cambria.

These two exceptional venues crowned our holiday stay in Asheville, NC. Spending three days and three nights in each: The Haywood Park Hotel, built by Edwin Wiley Grove, “the guiding light of modern Asheville,” and the Cambria, a three star, highly lauded boutique gem, directly across from the historic Grove Arcade.  Both were divine in their own right but both in wildly different ways!

Winter Cabana:
A Heavenly Bonus on The Cambria’s Rooftop

A true highlight of our dual stays began at sunset in the bedazzled private heated Winter Cabana at The Cambria’s Hemingway’s Cuban Restaurant’s 4th floor rooftop (they apparently also serve breakfast). With its sweeping city and mountain views, we had booked this private heated igloo in advance for dinner and drinks and we couldn’t have been more enchanted!

We understand the transparent tent with sky view can accommodate a rousing party of up to twelve! This completely one-of-a-kind glowing sanctuary offered us a secluded bewitching realm to enjoy our meal in bliss complete with night skyline, faux toasty fireplace heaters, retro Cuban records and record player, period movies, magazines and lamps and comfy russet and lime green 70’s sofas. Truly spectacular, our unique retreat under the star-filled sky was like nothing we’ve  experienced before and apparently are available only in wintertime and through early spring.

Fitz & The Wolfe:
Right off The Haywood Park Lobby

Another super fabulous eve was spent at Fitz & The Wolfe, a cool jazzy nightclub/speakeasy throwback with live music, complete with bar bites and custom cocktails, just off the the Haywood Park Hotel lobby, literally through one nearly secret door.

Our Hotels:
The Historic Haywood Park Hotel

Nestled among Asheville’s boutique hotels and B&Bs, both hotels offered their own blend of idyllic high-end hospitality with plum locations in the eye of Asheville. To seal the deal both hotel staffs greeted us as VIP’s with a complimentary glass of bubbly! Surrounded by the city’s celebrated culinary and retail scenes, along with original converted gallery spaces brimming with the paintings, jewelry, ceramics and sculptures of the region’s artists, you can literally walk anywhere you may desire.

Another plus was that both hotels offered coveted and seamless in/out 24 hour valet (worth its weight in gold!) and uber friendly pet policies. The historic Haywood Park Hotel transported us back in time. Once inside, we were awed by its expansive art nouveau and neo-classical lobby.

There was an actual Model T Ford permanently parked there, and Asheville’s previously most luxurious department store still has on display relics and remnants like original signage and bygone era clothing-dressed mannequin show windows throughout, dating from the 20’s and 30’s. The elevator speaker system announces its floors: “Menswear,” “Womenswear,” or “Childswear,” and right off the elevator landings are authentic era seating and dining areas.

Our converted luxury suite measured nearly 1200 square feet and appeared to once house a complete store department. It provided a full dining and reception area that one could easily imagine hosting parties, receptions and workshops there comfortably.

The Cambria Downtown Asheville

Down the block is the sparkling, meticulous and impeccably designed Cambria. Its festooned splashy lobby boasts glitzy caramel covered mid century modern Egg chairs and original art. Our super creative and freshly conceived hotel room awed us with its sleek charcoal, white and taupe custom textiles, tile, color coordinated amenities and innovative design solutions. Our room literally popped with color, sleek loft sophistication and imaginative innovation.

Who could have thought of a blue tooth option embedded in the bathroom mirror for customized streaming while showering!? Both properties were supremely located for our six day/night whirlwind and incredibly fun and festive Asheville immersion!

Both are unreservedly recommended as an ideal vehicle to soak in and celebrate Asheville’s panoply of earthly delights unabashedly.

Hop On/ Hop Off Trolley Tours of Asheville, NC
http://www.GrayLineAsheville.com
info@GrayLineAsheville.com – +18282518687

The Haywood Park historic Hotel
An Ascent Hotel Collection
Reservations: 828-232-8217

The Cambria Hotel
Downtown Asheville
Reservations: 828-348-4850

Hemingway’s Authentic Cuban Restaurant / Rooftop Winter Cabana
(rental, minimum, gratuity)
Accommodates up to 12.
Reservations: 828-417-6866

Both are Choice Hotels & FIRC Group properties

Other not to miss attractions:

  • Holly Jolly Christmas Trolley Tour
  • Biltmore House Candlelight Holiday Tour
  • LaZoom Comedy Bus Tour
  • Winter Lights at the North Carolina Arboretum
  • The S&W Market Food Court
  • Ginger Bread House Display at the Grove Park Inn

Utmost gratitude to the exceptional Mike Lovett, Director of Marketing, FIRC Group.

Cathy H. Burroughs is a noted travel writer and blogger. Some of her specialties include historic hotels, Southern cities and small towns, vintage Florida, the US West Coast, all over Europe, www.homeexchange.com and more. She has published widely including The New York Times international supplement and others.